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Friday, October 7, 2011

Hemingway

Bird of few words...
When I was in college, as an English major, I had to take course on Hemingway and Fitzgerald. Fitzgerald I could handle...easy! But Hemingway? Ugh! My favorite author is Jane Austen, the absolute polar opposite of Hemingway...soft and romantic, contrasted with Hemingway, rough, outdoorsy and masculine. Yet, I ended up falling in love with Hemingway, man of few words, yet able to convey meaning so simply.
I think food is like literature, romantic or masculine. Sweet or savory. Short and to the point or long and drawn out. This is perhaps what I don't like about some restaurant food, too many adjectives. As if more adjectives tacked on to a single dish can increase the price. I don't like over-handled food, just as I don't like over handled prose. Most of the food I prepare is definitely more on the Hemingway side of the cookbook shelf, simple. I think the essence of good writing, and indeed good food, is if the "artist" can get his point across in as few strokes as possible.
He probably has a different opinion of Pollo al Limone
So to exemplify this point, I share Pollo al Limone, given to me by Italian Chef and California Culinary Academy Instructor, Carlo Middone. Chef Carlo taught Italian at the CCA, one of our required, 1 week long specialty classes. This lemon chicken is simple. He instructed us to poke the lemon all over with a knife, stuff it in the cavity of the chicken, rub the body with kosher salt and olive oil and roast at 350*F.  for about an hour and a half, for a 3 to 4 pound chicken or until the internal temperature is 165-170*. Nothing else. So simple! So Hemingway! Juicy and moist, tender and delicious. But sometimes the Jane Austen in me cannot resist rubbing the bird with seasonings, stuffing her with fresh herbs and perhaps a clove or 10 of garlic...but I digress.
(If you run your hand up under the breast of the bird, and separate the skin from the breast, you can the flavor the meat, with olive oil and kosher salt instead of just rubbing it on the outside of the bird.)

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