The Incredible Lightness Of Light

Light tickling water.

Have you noticed that the light is different in different places, at different times of the year? I've begun to be aware of the sunlight as I run around my backyard chasing elusive Light with my butterfly net. 
Sometimes I am successful, but more often, I am not. Lately, Light slips through the holes in my net and teases me as he slips quickly beneath the horizon.

Shadow...Light's companion.

I remember the first time I became aware of Light. It was when I stepped off the train just outside of Venice. Walking through the labyrinth that makes up the city nearly took my breath away. The light in Venice is different. Different from other parts of Italy. The whole city is bathed in ochre light, wrapped in umber, tinted with sienna and highlighted with sepia tones. You almost feel as though you've stepped into a Caneletto painting. The city askew, wreaks havoc on a WASP's view of symmetry. Out of place in jeans and sneakers, I walked, mouth agape, in awe of Venice's mystery and beauty, through the tight and  crooked streets, walking, walking, twisting, turning until suddenly...the sky opened up, the light changed again, and there I was, in the middle of Piazza San Marco! 

Dappled light.

The only sad thing about traveling alone, is that years later, you have no one to say, "do you remember...?" 
I have photos, but, for some reason I can't remember, I made the choice to shoot them all as slides. So there they sit, in my garage, not an album, and I have no way of viewing them, except to hold them up to Light. One day, somehow...

17th Century light.

What is lighter than Light? It is a souffle of course! I know I promised I would never make a souffle, but I think I also said, I might...if the time were right and I'd roped you in. Maybe this is the time? It's close to the holidays...you might have a little extra time on your hands? You're feeling a little frisky in the kitchen? Yes? Then why not...?
I have a special feeling for Souffle Grand Marnier. It was the dessert I had to prepare for my final during cooking school and I got a near perfect score, making up for my too rare lamb chops I am sure. 
And so, Souffle Grand Marnier, perfectly elegant for the holidays...lighter than Light! Souffles are a two step process. Make the base, fold in the whites..that's pretty much it. Don't be scared...I'll hold your hand...promise!

Souffle Grand Marnier

Souffle Grand Marnier (From Gourmet Magazine, October 1997)
6 tablespoon butter
1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons flour
1 cup whole milk 
1 cup granulated sugar
7 large egg yolks
1/2 teaspoons vanilla
2 tablespoons Grand Marnier
1/8 teaspoon orange oil (I omitted this, you can use orange zest instead)
8 egg whites,
pinch of salt

1. Butter 8 1 cup souffle molds. Roll sugar around to coat. 
2. Preheat oven to 400*F, and set the rack in the lower third level of the oven. To make the sauce base:
3. Melt the butter over a moderately low heat and whisk in flour. Cook, whisking, 3 minutes. Add the milk and cook over moderate heat, whisking, until mixture is very thick and pulls away from sides of pan. Transfer to a bowl and let cool for about 5 minutes.
4. In a large bowl whisk the yolks, vanilla, orange oil or zest and a pinch of salt, whisk in Grand Marnier and flour/butter mixture whisking until smooth.
5. In a clean, separate bowl, beat egg whites until foamy.  (This is the tricky bit...any trace of grease will ruin your whites)  Slowly add in the sugar, and beat to stiff shining peaks. When you lift the beater, the whites will be very stiff and will be able to stand up when the beater is pulled through them. 
6. Finishing the souffle: 
7. Stir in 1/4 of the egg whites to lighten it. Delicately  fold in the rest of the egg whites and turn the souffle mixture into the prepared molds. 
8. Place the ramekins in a baking pan and fill with hot water, half way up the sides. Bake at 400*F for about 20 minutes, until puffed and tops are golden.
9. Sprinkle with powdered sugar.